Cauliflower in the fridge and arborio in the cupboard. What's for dinner? Well, the cheddar cheese may not be authentic Italian, but I think that it is the perfect match to the creamy cauliflower and the salty, sour sauce.


Cauliflower Risotto with Beurre Noisette and Capers
Ingredients
1 Cauliflower
100ml Milk
1 l Chicken Stock (or veggie if you're that way inclined)
400 ml Dry White Wine (no rubbish - something you'd drink)
300 g Arborio Rice
1 Onion (finely chopped)
100g Butter
200g Mature Cheddar (grated)
1 tbsp Parsley (chopped)
1/2 Lemon (juice)
30 g Capers
Olive Oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Serves 4

Method
  • set the oven to 180 degrees C.
  • chop half of the cauliflower roughly and place in a pan with the milk and stock - bring gently to a simmer.
  • chop the rest of the cauliflower into small bite-sized pieces and place on an oven tray. Toss with olive oil and season. Place in the oven to roast (about 10 minutes).
  • make a basic risotto: gently soften the onions in olive oil with a little of the butter, season well, add the rice, cook for a minute or two, add the wine.
  • once the wine has mostly been absorbed, add a ladle full of the stock that the cauliflower is cooking in - keep on adding ladles and stirring when needed.
  • when you're getting near the end of the risotto cooking, blitz the remaining stock and cauliflower mixture and add to the risotto.
  • add the cheddar to the risotto and stir - check seasoning and consistency.
  • heat a small pan until hot - add the remaining butter and cook until it goes a nutty brown colour. It will foam up just before it reaches this stage.
  • remove the butter from the heat and immediately add the lemon juice, parsley and capers.
  • serve the risotto with the roasted cauliflower and the sauce drizzled over the top

We can't really find brown shrimp in Perth, so I was keen to cook something with them on this trip to the UK. This is a variation on a classic. We found the dressed Cromer crabs in the fish market, and decided to put the two together.

Potted Crab and Brown Shrimp
Ingredients
2 Dressed Crabs
100g Brown Shrimp (cooked and peeled)
200g Butter
1 tsp Mace (ground)
1 tsp Paprika (ground)
1/2 Lemon (zest and juice)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp Chives (finely chopped)
Fresh dill & chive flowers (garnish)

Serves 4

Method
  • mix all together apart from the butter, dill and chive flowers
  • melt all of the butter gently, and add finely chopped dill stalks - set aside to cool a little
  • mix two thirds of the butter into the crab/shrimp mix and
    then portion it into individual ramekins, or a souffle dish
  • flatten the top and clean the rim with a cloth
  • pour the remaining butter over the top
  • spread the dill and chive flowers over the top - refrigerate
  • allow to warm to room temperature before serving
  • serve with melba toast, or other nice toasted bread

NB: We drank the stunning "Terras Gauda - O Rosal 2009" with this dish. It is one of my favourite whites and I'd ordered some to be waiting at the UK house because it is cheaper there than in Australia. If you did want to get hold of it, then I've been told by the producers that the only importers in Australia are The Wine Station.

Victor Arguinzoniz's temple to charcoal cooking...he will cook ingredients from caviar to ice-cream over the charcoal grill!

I can't wait to go to Victor Arguinzoniz's temple to charcoal cooking in May! It is somewhere that has only come to my attention more recently than its showier Spanish cousins such as Arzak and El Bulli, but the reports that I've read have moved it right up my list.

We've booked our table for late May when we're on holiday in San Sebastian. Choosing where to go whilst we're there was a tough decision because it is probably the food centre of the world at the moment with more Michelin stars per capita than anywhere else. We're already travelling from Australia, and spending some time in London, so won't be able to afford to go to more than one top place whilst in Spain, but Etxebarri is unique, and who knows, I may even pick up some new barbeque skills to bring back to my Australian friends.

For those who don't know, VIctor makes different charcoal for each different ingredient, and will cook ingredients from caviar to ice-cream (as well as seafood and meat of the highest quality) over the charcoal grill! It is the combination of this unique cooking style carried out using equipement that he designed, and the incredible quality of the ingredients, that make this place one of the top restaurants in the world.

I'll write a full report when we've been there, but in the meantime, here's a link to their website and to an article with some great pictures.